Akris Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 Paris
In designer Albert Kriemler’s distinctive handwriting was this single phrase written on a white piece of show note paper, “It’s a dream of fabrics and nature - moved forward through technology […].” It was an intriguing concept that made for one of the strongest shows the designer has done in recent memory.
In the last few years Kriemler has traversed few major life moments, the passing of his mother, the 90th anniversary of the family owned Akris brand, becoming the go to designer for one of the most beautiful royals in the world- Princess Charlene of Monaco (who came to Paris to take in the show).
With so much going on, it is understandable that recent Akris collections have tended to lean towards the reserved. Not so for next season. This show was imbued with an upbeat and optimistic energy.
The collection was an exploration of geometric patterns created organically in nature and how to transpose their innate beauty into a wearable collection. To set the tone the designer sent out cotton voile dresses, tunics, long plissé chiffon skirts and even a leather jacket that lined up perfectly with it’s a companying skirt in a print of curving sandstone lines. And then a few more "slip on and go" outfits in a shaded gray honeycomb print.
From that foundation imagery he slowly but surely expanded outwards; the curving lines of the sandstone print became a fantastic coat layered with curving demi lune panels ringing out from one shoulder. One sheath dress mimicked the microscopic elegance of green Algae via a St. Gallen embroidery. Most dramatically the honeycomb print was recreated as embroidery and in a few jaw dropping pieces a holographic element was added to give the pattern a sensual serpentine vibe.
This was a first rate show from start to finish. Buyers, who have been having a pretty dry season so far, must be sighing with relief right about now.