Alexander Wang Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
There is a witty grit to the works of Alexander Wang. On the one hand, it’s urban lifestyle at its rawest, tire-tracks and upmarket combat pants and all; on the other, it’s a fur-filled hood fit for your first class trips on the A380 and whiskey tumblers in his Objects collection.
For the summer season, he played with function and utility, revisiting and furthering a hyper-urban story, taking the humble leather-bottomed backpack as a starting point. It was a collection in which the utilitarian details were the kind that add enough to a basic item to translate that into sales, and where interesting materials supported the relevance of the narrative without impeding wear.
In no particular order, the harness detail on a lightweight nylon parka, cotton coated in resin for a leathery look, glazed raffia cut into easy crewnecks, a quasi-tuxedo pant – the nylon strap running down the sides provided the visual cue – and trompe-l’oeil shirt sleeves continuing a sweater. It’s the 90s, but digested and reappropriated into more refined incarnations. On paper, this collection could have been created by a number of designers these days, but up close, the very Wang details come through loud and clear.
It’s good, it works, and with accessories like the Emmett chukka boot or the bomber tote to play with, Wang’s tapping into what guys today want: items engineered for everyday.