Alexander Wang Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 New York
Let’s start with the end of the Alexander Wang show, because that is what everyone is going to remember about his latest collection. After producing a fine show, which put the designer's expert tailoring on display (more about that later) he took a beat and then sent out a group of fair haired models in all white alternatives to looks he had shown in the main collection.
Drop the house lights and…boom…those mild mannered designs showed their true colors. Glow in the dark colors to be exact. Bright beacons of phosphorescence yellow that lit up both the room and the audience watching the event unfold.
It was a great feet of showmanship and it proves that you don’t have to go to the European shows to see a bit of sartorial theatrics. But if Wang is a showman he is also a designer with his finger firmly on the pulse of young urban fashion.
In this collection that meant stripping style down to its bare basics. In fact this show wasn’t so much about the clothing on the runway but rather what was holding the designs together. Wang, thanks to thousands of spider web thin transparent nylon threads, was able to create the illusion that his clothing was suspended across the body. The result was both eerie and -on the dresses- sexy.
The silhouette of the show was slightly boxy as if the girls had borrowed say a sports jersey or t-shirt from their boyfriends. But there was also a frisson of animal magnetism in this collection. This came thanks to the backs of white cotton shirts that had been crafted to look as if a crocodile pelt was draping the spine or a perforated beaded ensemble that echoed the look of reptilian scales.
It made for a collection that was both space age and sporty. One that couldn’t help but bring to mind the work of Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges, two men who defined the youth culture of their jeunesse. Something Wang is clearly doing for his generation.
- Jessica Michault