Alexandre Plokhov Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 New York

One only need look at the Alexandre Plokhov aesthetic to realize that the Russian-born, New York-based designer’s design skill is highly regimented and a constant work in motion. For spring, Plokhov took his fascinations home—turning to a book by Xavier Zimbardo called “The Monks of Dust” that detailed the lives of Russian Orthodox monks. “I was very impressed by their lives,” Plokhov said. “There was a purpose to them, a spirituality to them and they photographed beautifully.”

So how to translate that into garments for the everyday—albeit high-fashion, fashion-forward—man? Plokhov presented the line in a triptych—coal, ash and alabaster—each one representing the religious man’s journey from dark into light. While exquisite tailoring is the cornerstone for Plokhov, he let loose the seams to showcase a fluidity of garment that was evident with each step. “The jacket blazer we made like a shirt, it’s that thin,” he said. “So it’s dressy, but not buttoned up or terribly restrained.”

There was much to appreciate about this hyper-relaxed monochromatic collection that evoked both wistfulness and grace. Natural fabrics were kept concise: pure linen, homespun cotton and vegetable-dyed leather. Plokhov “cold-dyed” all of the cloth—a technique not dissimilar to what monks would have used in everyday life. Accessorized with cast bronze jewelry in matte colors, the final effect was strong and in-your-face.

During the ash portion, the models sported hair that looked like they had played inside a volcano—just one example of the heightened effect to which Plokohov takes his direction. Take, for example, the backdrop wall panels made of chalk dust (which some guests learned the hard way); the idea originated when Plokhov shot the lookbook in the basement of a building in downtown Los Angeles. “It was my attempt to capture this liquid smoke,” he said.

- Jim Shi