This season Alexis Mabille’s collection was more focused and light hearted then we have seen from the Frenchman in quite some time. He cut down on the number of looks and gave a twist to his ladylike design tendencies by bringing in some more youthful accoutrements, such as witchy wide brim hats, grey sweatshirts tied about the waist and some snazzy elastic ankle tracksuit/ tuxedo hybrid pants.
There was an exploration of movement throughout the show. This was most pointedly done in the way Mabille cut the hemlines of his jackets, skirts and tops so that they would lap longer down one side or alternatively fall in folds of fluid handkerchief hems. Outerwear also put the accent on motion with capes or exaggerated long pea coats-the options for the day.
However, Mabille didn’t give up on his embellishments all together. There was plenty of black embroidered tulle and silver ruthenium floral motif sheer overlays to go around. And the kitschy choice to use shirtsleeves, as everything from a scarf around the neck to a bow at the waist, was pure Mabille.
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