Alibellus+ Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
Today, Titi Kwan shared a dream with us. The dream of the glamorous and cheeky Parisian nightlife of the past, expressed through his menswear autumn-winter 2013/14 for his label Alibellus+ – memorandum in Latin – that he launched in 2008. His third collection being all about places such as “Les Bains Douches” and “Le Palace” -the Mecca of the Parisian party scene where all sort of extravagances were allowed- next to punk rocker Billy Idol who influenced the general styling and hair does.
An inspiration that was not actually experienced by Kwan himself, who was a teenager back in the 80s, but it still kept him going. “When I was young, I was afraid of Billy Idol. But growing-up, I started to appreciate his style,” said Kwan about Idol's ferocious glam-punk look. “When I was younger, the grown-ups used to talk about “Le Palace” and its extravagant party people. With this collection, I wanted to pay homage to these times that I couldn't experience myself. This said, the ode to the 80s wasn't the whole picture, it was just a touch. The accessories and footwear were meant to look different, unfinished. It was about having fun on the runway as well”.
Iridescent black overalls, with a tuxedo shape for the top and harem pants cut for the bottom came along belted at the waist with boxy shoulders, and motorbike gloves and belts served as neckpieces. When exploring the different fusions of natural and technical fabrics, Kwan succeeded in creating silk covered with plastic and tulle embroidered with metallic threads for a glittery dévoré look on fitted shirts and jumpers. Color wise, Kwan played it safe: next to black and a hint of midnight blue on a trench-coat with belted cuffs, variations of purple on loose pants, tops, felted wool perfecto jackets, and scarves were the only hues allowed on the catwalk. Quilted boxy shirts and perfecto jackets, that came along with high-wasted pants, were fitting perfectly and thereby showing off Kwan's meticulous tailoring.
Although Kwan showcased only three collections so far, Hong Kong’s über-stylist and designer is no newbie to the fashion game. He has dressed and designed stage outfits for Chinese pop star Faye Wong, the so-called Madonna of the Far East, for more than a decade before deciding to launch Alibellus+, and immediately captivated the attention of renowned French fashion retailer Maria Luisa. Kwan's former collaborations include fellow designers Martine Sitbon and Hermès' Christophe Lemaire. Needless to say, that Titi Kwan is logically inspired by French, Parisian-made, style. And yes, Paris returning to its infamous Party nights is something we'd love to experience!
- Elisabeta Tudor