Allude’s Andrea Karg continues to explore the possibilities offered by her material of choice, cashmere. Exploring knitwear well beyond its most basic expressions, the German designer goes down the same route that has made the fortunes of designers such as France's queen of knits, Sonia Rykiel.

When breaking the on-topic loop with here a crisp white shirt or as a smartly tailored coat with strokable tufts of wool, it was more on target with her desire to provide elegant options to the contemporary dresser. But beyond the tactile appeal of many of her oversized weaves, replicating on the macro scale the intimate structure of her base material, Karg seemed to limit herself to variations around knit cashmere rather than explore its possibilities as a thread, and a base material.

The retail appeal of Allude is unmistakable, and in stores fares well. While it still spoke of the lush softness of its core material, Allude’s message was more a whisper than an affirmed statement.