There was something kind of college campus about this collection. Not the uptight, ironed, preppy look, there was none of that but the slightly cooler college vibe; kids who dig grunge, Brit-pop, jump around to punk and wear a flowing printed dress under a moochy Parka coat to fend off the winds. The eight parka’s jackets proposed by Altuzarra in a variety of cuts and shapes were the stand out propositions of this collection.
Paris born Joseph Altuzarra and his business partner Coline Choay met while he was working as an assistant at Givenchy in 2006, he had worked at Proenza Schouler and Marc Jacobs prior to that. The very first collection debuted in 2009. This collection had a different vibe to the previous two seasons, less visibly body conscious but with cuts and more fluid draping.
The large Argyle print in burgundy was everywhere and proposed in a variety of materials and shapes: jumpers with wide, open necklines to show off the collarbone, full tulip shaped dresses that stopped just above the knee, a ruched evening dress that mixed silk with chiffon.
Also featured were patterned dressed, elegant versions of the kind Courtney Love used to wear when she'd raid thrift stores for printed vintage and pair everything up with black boots and red lipstick. So let’s talk about those boots….
Altuzarra’s high-heeled black boots (a collaboration with Italian shoe-maker Gianvito Rossi, son of Sergio Rossi) were patent, pump, lace-ups either to the knee or above the ankle. Very covetable. Altuzarra matched them with layered silk dresses or long pencil skirts that had straps and fastenings, the kind devoted punks wore when Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren were inspired by bondage gear back in the day.
update: Altuzarra and Current/Elliot have collaborated on a mini range of denim. The six pieces debuted in this the AW11/12 show. They were the waxed, bleach denim and plaid/tweed screen-print finish in the show.