Altuzarra Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 New York
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For fall, Joseph Altuzarra was inspired by “the ever-changing and multi-faceted aspects of the street.” That translated to tough, sleek silhouettes in a strict palette of black and white punctuated by flashes of taupe and brilliant orange. Hard surfaces, reflections, the horizontal and the vertical; the collection continued to explore the core Altuzarra aesthetic, all the while elevating its restrained and ultra-feminine curvatures.
 
The powerful lineup was a 180-degree turn in aesthetic from his ornamental spring showing. The grittier, stricter urban collection swam in murky greys, blacks, sycamore green and forest green accented by shocks of optic white and persimmon. Leather turtlenecks, fox fur peeking from behind bonded crepe and satin-finished gunmetal hardware proved she’s the slickest street-savvy vamp in town.
 
Altuzarra’s emphasis on the nip of the waist while exaggerating the hip was exceptional. Played out in classic menswear twisted in a fiercely feminine silhouette, it all looked particularly chic in black and white leather and patchworked fox fur. The construction of the body-conscious dresses and suits, what with their exaggerated rounded shoulders and just enough leg visibility, showed a solidified train of thought. With virtually no adornment, save for some fabulous huge fox mittens, Altuzarra’s strength of design came through in his restraint: oversized metal buttons, skirts and dresses with panels of studs and plenty of well-placed padding all attributed to a new proportion that any woman—professional or otherwise—would love.

- Jim Shi

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