At the Altuzarra show, 18th century dandies and Truman Capote’s “Swans” (leading New York socialites Babe Paley, Slim Keith and Gloria Vanderbilt) were touchstones for designer Joseph Altuzarra. But his boardroom-meets-boudoir creations also clearly had the style of fashion editrix Carine Roitfeld copiously woven into the mix.
However the sexy, feminine dresses and the designer’s lean and long suiting was not the first thing to catch the eye. Instead the accessories, the sliver studded lace up white ruffle edged boots and saddle bags outfitted with braided straps that ended in flogger-like leather tassels, pulled the focus.
Usually this is sign of a weak collection. But seeing as the show was also the launch of the new handbag collection, the pull of those bags made sense, and enhanced rather than detracted from a collection that was in equal parts feminine and powerful. Or to be more specific, the Altuzarra woman knows just how potent her femininity is and she wields that power with an expert’s skill.
She knows that brandishing a naked thigh in the slit of an undulating flounce edged slim skirt shows she is in control of her sensuality. She understands that a broad fox fur collar on a coat or jacket helps make for an impactful entrance. She recognizes that girly, white lace can be a powerful camouflage. And she accepts that looking stunning in a shimmering velvet dévoré dress has more than a few tactical advantages.
Next season watch out for these Altuzarra women. They will be an influential tribe that, if they wanted to, could rule the world.