An Emotional Patchwork at Linder

Set inside a townhouse in Gramercy, just off Union Square Park, Sam Linder and Kirk Miller opened New York Fashion Week with their joined womenswear and menswear collections. 

The New York-based label has over the past few seasons developed a particular kind of aesthetic which cultivates a specific form of intriguing strangeness, merging urbane bohemian vibes with some dreamy, romantic drift. It is indeed this kind of refreshing gender-fluid style and at times intensely personal, emotional and intellectual energy that has made the brand stand out in the American scene. 

This season, the two designers showcased their latest offering by having an intimate soiree where women were trying on (and potentially buying) garments straight off the rack in a makeshift changing room that transformed the living room. A photographer roamed around the room, taking polaroids of the guests wearing the clothing.

Downstairs, it was all about the menswear offering headed by Kirk Millar. This season, Millar was inspired by both inspired by American cabin houses in the woods and 19th-century paintings. Playing with knitwear intarsia, ribbons, pearls, frayed jeans, tie-dyes and antique store treasures which were reworked into clothing, the collection felt like a sort of emotional patchwork of types. Artist Marc Armitano Domingo’s handmade ceramics also surrounded the clothes as part of the set.

A more minimal aesthetic distinguished Linder’s womenswear offering upstairs, as low rise fitted trousers, knitted tube dresses, romantic crochet knits and well-constructed printed workwear sets gave away 90s inspired vibes. Tones of blacks, greys, browns and burnt umber denoted the workwear sets and the sleek 90s dresses, while the occasional pop of bright pink and yellow set apart a few shirts and knitwear dresses.

Although the two collections presented some exciting pieces, overall what lacked was a fil rouge connecting the women’s and mens’ offering.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Auralee’s Imaginary Journey Through Time
By Alice Ierace
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer...
By Alice Ierace
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer 21 collection during digital Paris Fashion Week as one of the major independent fashion brands.As a brand, Auralee is renowned for its magnificent clean silhouettes, impeccable quality and minimal...
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer 21 collection during digital Paris Fashion Week as one of the major independent fashion brands.As a brand, Auralee is renowned for its magnificent clean silhouettes, impeccable quality and minimal styling. Its aim? A full exploration into the development of their own fabrics. By taking inspiration...
A Triumph of the Sublime
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
Lanvin   A dream as reality – here’s, in essence,...
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
Lanvin   A dream as reality – here’s, in essence, what Lanvin’s show was all about. For the last day of Paris Fashion Week, Creative Director Bruno Sialelli decided to explore the notion of reverie, of memories real and make-believe, of fantastical...
Lanvin   A dream as reality – here’s, in essence, what Lanvin’s show was all about. For the last day of Paris Fashion Week, Creative Director Bruno Sialelli decided to explore the notion of reverie, of memories real and make-believe, of fantastical characters and invented narratives. A dialogue between two worlds, intertwined with a playful take...
Hybridists of the Fashion Sphere
By Alice Ierace and Ludovica Parisi
Streetwear meets Japanese Heritage at Facetasm...
By Alice Ierace and Ludovica Parisi
By Alice Ierace and Ludovica Parisi
Streetwear meets Japanese Heritage at Facetasm Show   Founded in 2007 by Japanese designer Hiromichi Ochiai, Facetasm embraces Tokyo’s essence through a variety of laid-back styles from the sportswear vibe. His ability to play with perspectives...
Streetwear meets Japanese Heritage at Facetasm Show   Founded in 2007 by Japanese designer Hiromichi Ochiai, Facetasm embraces Tokyo’s essence through a variety of laid-back styles from the sportswear vibe. His ability to play with perspectives categorises him as one of the most eclectic menswear and womenswear designers of the time. From unisex...
A Duchampian Affair at Loewe
By Elisa Carassai
“Everything important that I have done can be put into a little suitcase," said Duchamp in...
By Elisa Carassai
By Elisa Carassai
“Everything important that I have done can be put into a little suitcase," said Duchamp in 1952. Inspired by the same artful spirit, at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson decided to ship across the world a series of boxes containing the things that inspired him, the details that made the process of...
“Everything important that I have done can be put into a little suitcase," said Duchamp in 1952. Inspired by the same artful spirit, at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson decided to ship across the world a series of boxes containing the things that inspired him, the details that made the process of creating so special and mini iterations of his final looks. Almost mirroring Duchamp's desire to display...
Sartorial Masters Debut at Paris Menswear
By Elisa Carassai and Ludovica Parisi
Summer Nostalgia at Davi Paris...
By Elisa Carassai and Ludovica Parisi
By Elisa Carassai and Ludovica Parisi
Summer Nostalgia at Davi Paris Spring / Summer 2021    After working for over 20 years at Ter et Bantine, Dirk Bikkembergs, Mila Schon and Giorgio Armani and Gucci, Italian designer Davide Marello finally displayed his own...
Summer Nostalgia at Davi Paris Spring / Summer 2021    After working for over 20 years at Ter et Bantine, Dirk Bikkembergs, Mila Schon and Giorgio Armani and Gucci, Italian designer Davide Marello finally displayed his own creative vision in 2018, launching Davi Paris at Paris Men’s Fashion Week.   With his subtle,...
GmbH and The Power of Community
By Elisa Carassai
Formed in 2016 by Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Berlin-based collective GmbH has...
By Elisa Carassai
Formed in 2016 by Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Berlin-based collective GmbH has garnered over the past few years a reputation for their diverse collaborative approach and innovative sustainable outlook which ensures the majority of the pair’s clothes are made from deadstock material...
Formed in 2016 by Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Berlin-based collective GmbH has garnered over the past few years a reputation for their diverse collaborative approach and innovative sustainable outlook which ensures the majority of the pair’s clothes are made from deadstock material sourced from a high-end factory in Milan – in resistance to the overconsumption of today’s fashion...
Standing Against Adversity Together
By Elisa Carassai and Sasha Regazzoni
SEAN SUEN  For Paris Digital Fashion Week, SUEN SUEN has debuted “Dionysian”, the brand’s...
By Elisa Carassai and Sasha Regazzoni
By Elisa Carassai and Sasha Regazzoni
SEAN SUEN  For Paris Digital Fashion Week, SUEN SUEN has debuted “Dionysian”, the brand’s Spring-Summer 21 collection which explores the dichotomy between the essence of human life and its conflicting internal emotions. The collection premiered with a short esoteric film capturing the tragic...
SEAN SUEN  For Paris Digital Fashion Week, SUEN SUEN has debuted “Dionysian”, the brand’s Spring-Summer 21 collection which explores the dichotomy between the essence of human life and its conflicting internal emotions. The collection premiered with a short esoteric film capturing the tragic theme of an irrational state of intertwined pain and intoxicating revelry where souls wander in a state...
Time Travelling to Old Glamour at PFW
By Alice Ierace and Sasha Regazzoni
Preppy School and 50s Galore at Ernest W. BakerFor the second day of Paris Fashion Week, brand...
By Alice Ierace and Sasha Regazzoni
By Alice Ierace and Sasha Regazzoni
Preppy School and 50s Galore at Ernest W. BakerFor the second day of Paris Fashion Week, brand Ernest W. Baker decided to rely on its heritage. “For a lot of people, us included, the pandemic and subsequent lockdown were a moment of awakening to what is really important. Being away from our loved...
Preppy School and 50s Galore at Ernest W. BakerFor the second day of Paris Fashion Week, brand Ernest W. Baker decided to rely on its heritage. “For a lot of people, us included, the pandemic and subsequent lockdown were a moment of awakening to what is really important. Being away from our loved ones, or unable to be with them physically really pushed this idea of family,” the designers...