Andrea Incontri Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 Milan
With the decaying busts and statues of Milan's Palazzo Reale setting a somber stage, Andrea Incontri's spring summer 2014 women's collection incorporated a potent mix of antiquity and modernity. Crafted around a swimmer theme and celebrating the fluidity of the female form, the architectural details were evident. Female swimmers from the past and swim lanes were emblazoned on dresses, embroidered on silky dresses and delicately woven on silk blouses reminding me of the chiseled Roman and Etruscan images that remain today on the faded sarcophagi of Italy's historic museums.
“In this collection, I really had to recall all of my architecture studies," said architect-turned-fashion designer Incontri backstage before his fourth women's show, pointing to some of the more structured items of the collection - like tailored mini skirts, leotards and floor-length dresses.
Open-toe duchesse satin heels in a color Incontri called "pool blue" and Mary Janes in contrasting colors, accompanied transparent button down and flowing dresses crafted with silky materials such as gazar and organza, flattering the female silhouette and recalling to mind the fashion worn during the 1932 Los Angeles Summer Olympic Games.
Twin-sets and culottes knitted with silk yarn were geometrically designed and drew direct inspiration from Olympic swimwear. Anemone blooming print played a supporting role, alternating with a diving pattern on scuba-like, skintight designs paired with a scuba cap to further emphasize the water theme.