Andrew GN Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
Andrew Gn is expanding out his ultra luxe universe this season. Giving woman who love luxury fabrics as much as the designer and collect his glamorous gowns religiously year after year some much needed outerwear to go with all of those bejeweled and embroidered ensembles.
“Women are looking for something to wear at night,” explained Gn backstage in a preview before the show. “Not just cocktail dresses and gowns, they need outerwear for the evening. When you are all dressed up it is difficult to find something appropriate to wear so I am coming out with evening parkas this season.”
Gn doing a padded parka sounds a bit utilitarian for the designer. But when Gn gets his hands on this outerwear staple he makes it the most opulent version possible. Cutting the hourglass coats in say an abstract print silk brocade with a fox fur collar, an aubergine silk zibeline fabric version was embossed with an architectural John Hoffman designs, while one in herringbone wool was given a dramatic secession-inspired leather appliqué.
The designer’s meticulous attention to detail could be seen throughout this confident show, which got its starting point in the astute mélange of two artistic styles: the Vienna Secession movement and the Art and Crafts movement born in the United Kingdom.
The mix made for some striking graphic embellishments on tops that featured an appliqué inspired by a Koloman Moser chair, skirts with undulating Aubery Beardeley waves of velvet sensually rolling the hemline up on one side or an acanthus leaf pattern quilted on a bolero jacket.
By passing gowns almost completely- there were only seven of them in the show- Gn smartly kept his focus on short dresses and skirt combos that would fit perfectly under all of those new coats. New too is the designer’s first bag. Called the Cargo - because Gn loves the pockets on those practical pants – it came in a handy tote size, crafted out of rich materials like crocodile and leather and features two front “cargo” pockets with closured built with tiger eye gemstones.
- Jessica Michault