Andrew Gn’s arty chicks are chic indeed; for summer 14, the designer imagined a wearable art collection, one that would appeal to a sartorial collector wanting to go Peggy Guggenheim on her wardrobe. In fact, “the Peggy Guggenheim collection” was the title of his show.
The references were sophisticated enough, in keeping with Gn’s high-end philosophy. “Never too beautiful, never too luxe,” he quipped to a Dutch editor backstage. Yet, on the back of the past two remarkable seasons, one that saw him garner the increased attention of women as vastly different as Hillary Clinton and Kirsten Dunst, this collection felt a little less sure-footed. The initial looks wavered in repetitions as if he were trying to convince himself that yes, these crop tops and short combinations were the way to go, as well as those printed dresses. Asymmetric skirts were stunning though, as were the laser cut, white-on-sheer-white looks that came later. From that point on, we found the Gn touch again. And fear not, if in need of a gown for some museum benefit, Gn provided those as well, flowing goddess-like columns, or puffy flurry of tulle. This season also sees his handbag selection expanded with roomy options adorned with the prints of his collection. Those were gorgeous and just the kind of thing a PYT will want to lug her art catalogs around in.
Shorts and shifts gave off a youthful and sportier vibe; hardly surprising, considering Gn is looking to move in a more commercial direction. In attempting the tight-rope exercise of keep one’s aesthetic yet reaching out to a new market, he faltered slightly. A shame that was, as his collections are usually a lovely and distinctive moment in the ready-to-wear season.