Andrew GN Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
Andrew Gn had a whole lot of artistic aspirations he was trying to meet with his spring/summer 2015 show. It was something of an iconic artists' melting pot type of collection, that pulled reference points from Asia, the Memphis design movement and Claude Monet.
The show started out strong with an inky black jacket given a striking white top stitched outline to a pocket and hem. The look underlined how very different a direction this collection would be taking Gn in. And this graphic boldness worked pretty well for the designer, through much of his obi belted daywear and graphic mixes of vibrant colors and dramatic floral or wave patterned motifs.
It was when the dresses grew into gowns that Gn stumbled a bit. His Impressionist Claude Monet printed-dresses were cut too literally and worked only slightly better shorter and beaded at the end of the show. Ditto a pair of beautifully crafted fil coupé gowns that looked like sartorial reinterpretations of neon images of cherry blossom that one might see scrolling across a digital screen above the Shibuya crosswalk in Japan.
Better were the city shorts, obi, and camisole combos paired with crystal and stone embellished coats. In fact all of the primary colored Pop Art infused shorter silhouettes in this collection gave the usually more stately aesthetic of the designer’s work a fresh and youthful vigor.
An Impressionist might have inspired this show, but it was Gn’s decision to push himself that truly left the strongest impression this season.