The Andrew Gn show was missing one very important element on Friday night – the designer.

Before the show began, it was announced that Gn was recovering from an operation to rectify a serious heart condition and he would be unable to take his traditional bow. It would be the first time that that had ever happened in the history of the house. But, the announcer went on, the designer was in “very positive spirits.”

If Gn couldn’t be at the show in person, his creative soul certainly was in the house. The designer, who worked on the collection up until just days before it was to be presented, produced a decorative and feminine show that used some of his favorite motifs as their foundation. This means that butterflies abounded throughout the lineup and a graphic color play that tended to stick with two colors at a time played key parts this collection’s success.

The other main reasons the collection worked was the overall restraint Gn showed. Hemming in his more bombastic tendency (except one bulbous bright green gown) in favor of beautiful yet user friendly designs. In particular, Gn created quite a strong lineup of daywear options.

For those daytime pieces, Gn chose to go with geometric designs and sharp silhouettes that looked equal parts powerful and feminine. For afterhours events, he loosened up a bit and covered his gowns in sequined butterflies as well as an assortment of other flora and fauna imagery that echoed the patterns of an antique Chinese porcelain bowl in the designer’s own personal collection.

When the final dress disappeared from view, the round of applause was heartfelt. In praise of a well done show, but also in support of a designer with a very devoted clientele.