Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
Though multilayered white curtains, the Ann Demeulemeester man appeared. While the rest of fashion seems to have sent their man on a climbing exhibition or off to a corporate job in the iron jungle, Demeulemeester’s guy isn’t interested in that go-getter approach. His is in a romantic world where gender lines bend and clothing is all about ease and comfort.
The designer’s fall/winter 2013 collection was one of her most androgynous to date. If it had not been for the plethora of business men bowler hats and leather combat boots being worn by the models, the sexual distinction would have been even more blurred.
Demeulemeester accomplished this blend by cutting her black and white collection in oversized shapes. A man’s white shirt would hang down below the knee, only held close to the body by a suit vest. Coats that cloaked the body were reminiscent of a monk’s garb and a white mohair sweaters were extended down to the floor to caress the runway.
Light layering was another way Demeulemeester transcended gender. Flowing fabrics would conceal fitted pants, or wide cut trousers would come with looping unstructured jackets and billowing shirts. Even her choice of pattern for her printed fabrics was in a neutral design that could look equally elegant on a man or a woman.
But if this show was sexless, it did have style. A style that for years Demeulemeester has been passionately cultivating for clients willing to walk a different fashion path.
- Jessica Michault