Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Fall Winter 2015 Paris
Where the namesake founder of Ann Demeulemeester's muse had been the distressed poet, successor Sébastien Meunier's would rather be a skinny rocker. And rather than a tough-edge disposition, the common thread between them would be the sensitivity. There was something intensely Byronic to the slightly humid look around models' eyes and the slim but not slight frames.
Case in point: the selection of looks expressed what Demeulemeester had worked on for her tenure(s) at the helm, but the predominantly dark tones usual to the brand find themselves greatly enriched by a handful of new hues, like a marvelous bottle green and a deep burnt umber, seen on leather shrunken around the legs. Well-chosen hues offered flashes of color, bringing delicate contrast to starker silhouettes. While it wasn't exactly a riot of colors, it brought a sense of romance that Demeulemeester herself had offered glimpses of, on occasion. Lashings of red or a dazzling green sustained the layering effect, providing allure and balance. There was nary a trailing element, even when zippers were left undone on an oval neckline closure.
Better still, this tighter silhouette afforded a closer look at the precise construction of his plastrons, even left unbuttoned. This is for sure a Demeulemeester trait oft overlooked, and that Meunier no doubt pursued deliberately. This and other such occurrences spoke of a sincere leaning, rather than a trendy posture, and made the ensemble feel all the more enhanced for it. Proof, for those in doubt, that Meunier is plumbing new depths rather than treading familiar shallows.