Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Spring Summer 2012 Paris
Ann Demeulemeester’s menswear collection was framed by songs by Nico whose most admired album is titled Desert Shore. As the voice of German singer and Warhol superstar Nico rang through Demeulemeester’s large venue, her models walked steadily over golden sand wearing black and worn hues. The desert, long adopted by fans of the Gothic aesthetic as a dry and barren metaphor for the loneliness and complexity of the human condition is another provider for Gothic romanticism. It worked well for Demeulemeester. Her mix of Victorian military with formal suiting multi-layered over loose shirts, leather sandals and unlaced boots gave the impression of a dark Robinson Crusoe or eighteenth century, ship-wrecked deck hands gathering for dinner, faded black flowers pinched into their button holes. Many suits were cut from two cloths, the body from one, the arms the second. Trousers dropped to the knee or shin. Today Demeulemeester turned sartorial Dame Friday for scuffed, desert castaways and bohemian vagabonds. Dark dreams and sweet voyages.