Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Spring Summer 2013 Paris
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No one would deny that Ann Demeulemeester is a lifelong romantic. Her collections are never without a poetic beauty and always convey a feeling of easy grace.  This show continued to explore that style of dress but instead of a dark romance filled with moody black ensembles the designer chose to lighten up. Filling her collection with shades one would never expect to see on the designer’s runway like bruised plum purple, burnt orange and old rose. This time her nomadic man took a trip to the Orient with black on black jacquard jackets with a rose motif or silk print pieces with a motif that could easily have been inspired by the Blue Mosque. The designer went with a layered look that featured a lot of silk scarves, kimono wrap tops that came with fitted vests to pin down the fluid fabrics and sensible flat suede boots. Fluid pants in a rose print were an interesting change of pace for the designer, while the choice to go with suits cut from corduroy in a summer collection seemed a bit odd.

It’s hard not to mention the designer Haider Ackermann in regards to this show. Both the tonal choices Demeulemeester made (Ackermann pretty much owns the colors plum and burnt orange right now) and the drippy way she styled her ensembles looked familar. But if Ackermann is the man of the moment, Demeulemeester is a woman who knows how to keep her man interested.

-Jessica Michault


 

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