Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
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Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris

"The pastel tones and prints really match the arts & crafts movement," said Sebastien Meunier who today had his first solo menswear show on the Paris calendar. The show was held at Couvent des Cordeliers. "I love the atmosphere over here, it goes really well with the Arts & Crafts mood as well."

It was Ann Demeulemeester herself who announced in a personal letter at the end of 2013 that she was leaving her namesake label, feeling like it was time to separate her personal life from the brand. After an absence on the Fall Winter 2014 menswear calendar, the season in which the brand decided to show their menswear and womenswear collections at the same time, it was now time for a menswear only show.

"And we are definitely going to do that the next seasons as well," ensured the designer.

Full of joy, he spoke about the "new birth" of Ann Demeulemeester menswear. A collection in which layering played a big role. Meunier managed to layer thin items, like sheer coats and shirts over thicker items like beautiful tailored jackets. Shirt on shirt, jacket on jacket; each look had a lot to discover. Wonderful paneled jackets, embroidered jackets, shirts, and footwear and relaxed fit trousers. A lot of attention was paid to details, for example by fraying the ends of tops and shirts.

Meunier had a rough start last season, being critiqued for lacking innovation, but today's show proved he can put together an originative collection. Possibly because he had his own platform for the label for the first time. The artists of the Arts & Crafts movement did not become successful overnight, but they got there and surely Meunier will do so too.