Ann Demeulemesteer excels at somber, timeless garments. This season’s theme of the ‘Dark Ages’ hence fit her like a glove.
The collection she presented yesterday was, it seemed, a tad Joan of Arc inspired: androgynous, warrior-like garments, in an almost monochrome palette.
Gloomy yet passionate, the clothes were almost exclusively composed of leather, boiled wool and touches of cerulean blue moiré.
Every model bore cow skin trousers, knee-high boots, and wrap-around coats with off-centered zips. The hair was extra-long and spiky, midway between mowhawks and Beetlejuice.
As the designer often does, many of the pieces came with elaborate constructions around the necklines, some exaggerated collars, other dramatic scarf-pieces.
The show ended with a series of dresses and skirts that looked equally tomboy as the rest of the collection: those were floor length with a bold slit, yet revealed a pair of leather trousers.
Quite her change from her previous (almost) boho collection.