A year into the post-departure era at Ann Demeulemeester, it was time to take stock of the road covered since its eponymous founder left the brand. Her design team has since run the gauntlet of keeping true to her aesthetic while moving ahead on their own.
So far, so steady. Layering and featherweight fabrics made for an ethereal summer wardrobe fit for a rock star. Strong women are part and parcel here, and their nonchalance belies the razor tailoring and thick, textural materials. But was this chiaroscuro romance strong enough to shine on a runway without the benefit of touch to explain the beautiful hand of a brocade or leathers?
While all silhouettes formed a cohesive and true reflection of the Demeulemeester aesthetic, they were missing a spark or perhaps that folly that distinguished a facet of the Antwerp Six. It is clear that although dedicated and talented, the design team led by Sebastien Meunier is still cautiously referential. Come next season, this needs to no longer be the case.