Anthony Vaccarello Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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It looks like Anthony Vaccarello has taken some heed from the feedback given to him from buyers who more than likely advised the designer to try and build a collection that could actually be worn by women other than supermodels like Anja Rubik and Karlie Kloss. But, of course, still bring the sexy that the designer has made is sartorial bread and butter.

“I really wanted to develop heavier pieces, winter pieces like coats, jackets and pants,” said the designer. “And also less fitted than in the past, something rounder, more enveloping,” he elaborated.

Enveloping in the Vaccarello word is something of a relative thing when a short skirt (or is it a wide belt?) wraps the model’s hips with a slanting hemline, a leather top is cut low in the front and an all black outfit of tailored pants and long sleeve top comes with a swath of see-through metal grommets slicing across the torso.

To be fair there were a lot of well-executed and more covered up pieces in the all black and white collection. Pants with a slight drop crotch, shimming black short jackets and slim coats outfitted with metal embellishments at the cuffs and low slung leather belts all had real world, yet still sexy, potential.

But lets circle back to those metal grommets. A clear nod to the 1960s and Paco Rabanne, they appeared on a large portion of the collection and were the first time the designer had ever used embroidery in his collection. Each grommet had been inserted into a hole-filled lace base to make the textile more elaborate and the concept worked well for the designer. They made for a sexy accent to his arguably more reserved designs.

Perhaps it was the inclusion of the grommets detail on so many pieces that made this show feel a bit one note. It would have been nice to see Vaccarello expand out on the idea a bit, maybe introduce a print with the same motif, or incorporate another metal element into the mix?

Overall this was a solid collection that had a number of ensembles that will speak to the real rocker chicks of this world.

- Jessica Michault

 

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