The mind meld between Anthony Vaccarello and Donatella Versace (Vaccarello is also the creative director of the Versace house) seems to be complete at this point. It is getting harder and harder to distinguish where one's artistic vision starts and the other one's ends. Granted, Vaccarello was doing the sexy, hip high skirt slit style from the beginning, so maybe it came down to the fixtures and fittings of his Spring/Summer 2016 collection that made it feel more Versace than Vaccarello.
The bold gold buttoned pant cuffs, the lines of open snaps running down the length of a jacket lapel, and, in particular, the metal three ring binder loops that the designer used like an anchor to gather together fabric at the waistline of a dress or a shirt felt very much like a part of the Versace universe.
When Vaccarello stayed closer to his home turf in terms of trademark silhouettes, his wrap oversized belt-sized short skirts (this time held closed thanks to the precarious meeting of a snap or two) or the split-to-the-hip dresses (which came cut in more down to earth fly away silk cottons for Spring), the evolution of the ideas didn’t push far enough. Even last year’s swinging metal fringe returned as metal bars geometrically placed in spaces sliced into their leather backdrop so they could swing as the model moved, a move that felt more derivative then daring.
It was only when Vaccarello brought in some Pop Art ideas in the form of a pixilated face of a full-lipped beauty defined by dots that this collection showed a spark of something fresh and original.
Right now, Vaccarello’s sexy frame of view is too limiting. He needs to broaden his sartorial horizons. As any woman (including Versace) will tell you, there are quite a few different ways to make the female form look hot.