Backstage before the Aquilano Rimondi show, Roberto Rimondi was in a fighting mood. He didn’t care if everyone in fashion seems to be doing minimalism. He couldn’t be bothered by what other houses are up to. He is Italian. And for him that means full throttle fashion of the maximal variety.
And he wasn’t kidding.
Already just by looking at the mood board backstage – which was covered with kabuki masks, clowns dressed in Venetian harlequin prints, the color block work of Roberto Cappucci and a primary color poster of the classic Fellini film “La Strada”- this show was on fire with its feisty fashion muses.
The collection, designed by Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano, was just as complex as that mood board. Not only in the kaleidoscope mix of those harlequin prints- bright color combinations and shimmering beadwork- but also in the shapes the designers chose to craft the clothing.
Rounded bubble mini skirt dresses in stiff satins and knee length options that came with slide slits to help with movement, had very structured silhouettes. Silhouettes that were off-putting at times, as was the case of skirts with pooching fabric at the stomach, which made the models look like they were in their first trimester of pregnancy.
And whoever thought it was a good idea to use circus music to accompany this show should be scolded. It was way too literal and blocked this collection from being viewed as anything more than the designer’s version of big tent costumes.
Surprisingly, the best parts of this show where not the ones inspired by the best of Italian culture. It was those Asian influences, a big trend this season, that really worked. It succeeded both as a starting point for the construction of the clothing (kimono cut jackets) and in the embellishments (a profile of a kabuki mask on the torso of a dress). So maybe it is finally time for the Aquilano.Rimondi brand to travel a bit more outside of Italy. It could do the brand a world of good.
- Jessica Michault