In the town that couldn't exude more youth or verve or sense of cool if it tried right now, Paris was surely then the sweet spot for Emporio Armani to up sticks from its native Milan and show for Spring/Summer 2017. Something of a significant move and a one-time only stunt from the designer for his younger and more accessible line, in a time of change and fashion flux it made total sense. Even if it did feel a little strange sitting in Paris, in Milan. Because that's basically exactly what we were doing. The entire fanfare here, from one fashion capital to another.
Emporio Armanio Fashion Show Ready-to-wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 Paris
But again, it made sense – and came at a timely point for the brand as it restyles its Saint Germain store and when fashion's focus right now is in the town from which Vetements came. Though, unlike so many shows and collections of this fashion week and month (big ones included), there was not a note of Vetements here. Because why would there be? Armani made it back in the day and has a loyal customer base that wants something reliable, something steady, something Armani. Each fashion time to their own.
And Mr Armani did just as he needed for them today, but this being the Emporio line it did feel younger and funkier – the colours were electric and bright in purple and red, jewel-rich tones for pyjama loose looks and wispy-easy dresses. Styling was key – bold earrings, bright bags, the braided hair. There was a sense of adventure with elephants the motif of choice and ornate embroidery at play. It was relaxed, easy, and the last series of outfits a reminder that the Italians know how to close a show – in fact, that it is in itself another show. Here, iridescent cerulean shimmering gypsy-style tops.
Masha Ma Fashion Show Ready-to-wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 Paris
Youth works in Paris right now – look at the shakeup the past year: Jacquemus, Aalto, Koché, Y Project. This is where new brands are starting. This is where they're moving. It was in July that the news came that a slice of Milan would come to Paris, a cross-fertilisation of fashion always a good thing. That's how Paris became Paris: the Japanese, the Belgians, the list goes on.
And elsewhere this season it felt like there was a slice of London here, too. For the grungy collection of Masha Ma, which granted did seem to have felt the Vetements effect, but had some great silver pieces in and its run-down location had that perfect London feel. Streetwear and boots were colour-splattered and there was that mash-up of a style personality. Volume big, colour key.
Lutz Huelle Fashion Show Ready-to-wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 Paris
Meanwhile Lutz Huelle's ode to denim collection had a London sensibility too. The slouched boots here were top of the shopping list as were the dresses that pretended to be oversized and asymmetric denim jackets but then descended into a magenta skirt. It's that casual nature, that attitude we so associate with the UK capital – something that says you don't want to mess with the girl who has the guts to wear these pieces. And London in Paris works well. There are frankly enough CSM alumni at houses here to prove it.
Esteban Cortazar Fashion Show Ready-to-wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 Paris
But London and Milan and beyond. Esteban Cortázar took us off to Miami's South Beach for a collection of ribbed flower-pot pants and sequin bra tops, unfurling skirts and wide-leg silhouettes, leather worked in bright primary shades, and, in fact, punctuated by it. Skirts had a mermaid quality to them and there was a sportswear-scuba silhouette throughout. Those sequin splashed looks were great, the aforementioned leather too. With Esteban, there's always a foundation or three of great ideas you see and want to see more of.