Balenciaga Menswear Fall Winter 2017 Paris
Going to work just got more fun - or certainly more fashionable. Demna Gvasalia reworked the idea of corporate office dressing at Balenciaga for a collection full of covetable products and gimmick cool. [CONTINUE READING...]
it seems as if in 2017 fashion has become a political weapon more than ever before – and Balenciaga's Fall/Winter 2017 show in Paris was able to set the tone on this subject. Demna Gvasalia, the brand's artistic director, unveiled a decisively corporate-casual menswear collection that used and reinterpreted Bernie Sanders' campaign logo on the eve of Trump's inauguration. [CONTINUE READING...]
Demna Gvasalia reinterprets workwear. Tapping into the theme of Men at Work, from sporty references and bold logos to oversize shapes.
The curtain closes, long pieces of fabric run along the four walls of the room transforming the space into a meeting room, the asphalt grey of Brutalist architecture and conference room seating. The fast beat of techno music begins to play, the boss is back. Demna Gvasalia follows on from his debut collection with square silhouettes and sculpted shoulders, crafting a new idea of a man’s working wardrobe. It’s deliberate, as the house tells us. The maison of tailoring has found a new office in Paris - in the Kering headquarters - which is where the idea of corporate dressing came from. Atelier and finance. The sartorial house meets top management. A new non-uniform approach to office wear, with a mix of oversize tailoring and sporty accents. Elongated lines and statement ties, respecting the office dress code. Sneakers with triple layered soles and numbers embroidered on the toe. Windbreaker coats for soccer coaches, hoods popping out from under checked shirts, stoles with billboard style logo prints. Just like in every office, there are a couple of secrets as well: The long flowing coats reveal biker boots, they don’t quite cover the legs, revealing a flash of stockings that stop mid- thigh. Pyjama styles for those who work from home with embellished leather bomber jackets that take the look from bedroom to boardroom. There are also super skinny trousers worn with open shirts, giving a hint of something more sordid and sexy. A first brush of sensuality encased in the metallic belts and a flash of crystals. Now the Kering logo sits next to that of Balenciaga, you don’t get much more corporate than that….
Verdict: Wow. Demna Gvasalia knows how to play the game. His menswear leaves its mark, building on the aesthetic that seemed extreme and is now enriched with new fetishist touches. Like the sporty pieces that give the collection a touch of alpha male at the office. A collection filled with desirable accessories and the mood of a new generation.
By Stefano Roncato - MFF Magazine for Fashion