Basil Soda Couture Spring Summer 2012 Paris

The lebanese fashion designer Basil Soda has presented his new couture collection for Spring Summer 2012 with a more romantic view of embellishments. The dominant motif was the examination of the material under a microscope.

Tiny grey crystals, gilded twigs and pearls to decorating the tops of gowns have replaced molecules and atoms.

These new layers reveal a complicated molecular construction in the rich tradition of Haute Couture. An unadorned silk web fabric acts as an outer skin that is carefully pealed back in places to reveal the intricately decorated inner body of the dresses as if one were to peer beneath our own skin. Well-tailored, subtly decorated bustiers give way to flowing light layers of wonderfully silky lace and pleated Georgette.

Pale palettes of pink, flesh tones, light grey, white and punctuated by sunflower yellow, cinnamon. Massive bracelets and belts of gold foil embraced the waists and wrists of models. Mingling among all those luxurious embellishments were the oversize metallic zippers and the tiny jackets in plastic film that have become a modern take on the traditional art of custom dressmaking, as if Basil had decided to deconstruct and rebuild from the couture archives the embellishments.

-Mario Casarella