Bora Aksu Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 London
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The Turkish-born romanticist returned this season with a collection more grown-up and elegantly restrained than ever before. A designer that sometimes has tipped over to the overdramatic, this time Aksu achieved a perfect equilibrium between fantasy and polished wearability.

The silhouettes were strict but without losing the designer’s signature hyper-feminine feel via layered intricate lace and loose floaty shapes, defined by corsetry details. A certain regal air also carried on from last season with a palette of rich fuchsias, purples and blackberry hues; only the Romanian queen-inspired crowns from Spring/Summer were recreated into knitted metallic headpieces placed down on the forehead like soft armour of a new, slightly militant flapper.

With the imminent release of The Great Gatsby, 1920s art deco patterns and silhouettes will inevitably feature heavily on the catwalks this season; however, offsetting them by artfully sculpted and twisted leathers interweaved with chiffon, fur and knits, Aksu managed to make them his own, attesting to his increasingly defined aesthetic. Even his signature crocheted tights were subdued with less patterns and in more sober tones, showing that sometimes a step back, a pairing down, adds up to a more striking effect.

Indeed, lowering the volume and keeping the detailing less busy, Aksu made a significant step forward towards a more refined and sophisticated look.

- Maria Dimitrova

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