Boris Bidjan Saberi Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

Good news for Boris Bidjan Saberi: the half-German, half-Iranian designer will have plenty of reasons to celebrate his menswear closing event this Sunday in Paris. David Lynch's reputed club Silencio will host the launch of Saberi's first monograph: a 208 paged book retracing Saberi's past 11 collections, published by Atlante Libri.

But as mentioned, this is not the only good news: the Barcelona-based designer recently launched a second line named “11” and revealed a collecton of 11 silhouettes and accessories, where Saberi interprets his experimental yet artisanal signature style through more affordable fabrics, such as canvases, denims, jerseys and technical fabrics.

So what's new on the runway? While last season was all about reinterpreting the Mafia's sartorial tailoring, this new autumn-winter 2013/14 was military inspired. While his inspiration came from both the military and the streets, his actual way of designing reveals a high knowledge of handicraft and a penchant towards tailoring. Wrap coats were belted at the waist and came along with leather panelings and leather detailed sleeves, hooded parkas showed off obvious pipings, transparent long-in-the-back and short-in-the-front shirts were layered over drop-crotched suit pants or deconstructed shorts, while tailored overcoats came with asymmetric panelings that were created with an innovative square cut technique.

Next to his usual oiled cotton, buffalo and horse leather, Saberi proposed resinated wools, handmade felts and two slides of leather comprising a metal foil or according to the designer, “metal-sandwiches”.  As for the accessories, the oversized backpacks emphasized the sporty edge of the silhouettes and the vulcanized natural gum on the soles of shoes turned out to be a very clever way to customize common sneakers.

High artisanal work indeed.

- Elisabeta Tudor