Boris Bidjan Saberi Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

Something changed in Saberi's menswear wardrobe: the designer actually added color – sunny yellow – for the very first time in his style inventory. Quiet unusually, if you consider that Saberi has made a name for himself solely through his dark and sporty aesthetics, that are unfortunately sometimes misunderstood as a Rick Owens spin-off.


But the designer proved yet again that his clothes are worth it and actually challenged his own take on style quiet a bit – not only by adding colors, but by moving away from his quiet harsh army-like looks, for a more softer take on functional wear.


Thus, the sailor-theme of his latest collection was the perfect transition from his former combat sports and Mafia inspired work to something more easy-going: yellow life vests and windcheaters, sailor hats, knitted pants in fishnet-optic and waxed, wet-look cotton tops, next to overcoats made out of authentic boat sails brought some “ahoy” feeling to the darkness.


His latest menswear was also about making functionality desirable through reversible yet highly sophisticated looking garments. Think of a vest with an integrated backpack, naturally tanned leather jackets that were moulded on a human body – the designer's – for a perfect fit, or rather simple but efficient adjustments, such as removable jacket sleeves and length adjustable pants.


With such desirable garments, it was unfortunate that Saberi opted for a digital presentation instead of a défilé to present his collection. We hope to see him back on the runway next season.


- Elisabeta Tudor