"I am known for black but I actually don't know why. Because I am not Gothic," pondered designer Boris Bidjan Saberi after his intriguing Spring/Summer 2016 menswear show. "I like black as a color, or a non color, as I always start out without a color and only if I have time do I add one."
But in an about face for the designer, this season he went against his natural creative predispositions and let color dictate the director of his show. And not just any color, a deep and vibrant blue. "The blue was used because the inspiration for this collection was about diving and diving suits, so the blue of the sea," explained Saberi.
On the catwalk this starting point telegraphed a sensation of clothing designed to protect. Transformable garments that could adjust thanks to snaps and hidden pockets, or constructed to look as if they had been put on inside out. The more durable exterior worn close to the body.
Where the collection hewed most closely to the diving concept was in the high-waisted thick drop-crotch leather pants and jumpsuits with diagonal zippers. But the connection never felt obvious or gimmicky.
The final half a dozen looks were where the blue came into play. Those pieces, along with the ingenious use of hundreds of transparent plastic paper hole-punch protectors placed on the models’ faces to create a glistening wet effect, truly brought a salty fresh ocean breeze to the urban collection.
Saberi started with a diving theme for this show and he is going to have quite a few buyers willing to take the plunge into the deep with him.