Tomas Maier continues on his steady, yet always inventive, path at Bottega Venenta with his fall/winter 2014 menswear collection. Once again showing the rest of the designers who work in menswear how to seamlessly blend understated style with originality in a non threatening way. It was so deftly done that any man who could afford the brand would be a fool not to want to invest in one, or even a dozen designs that came down the catwalk on this foggy Sunday morning.
There was a clear turn towards more loungewear leading designs this season. Maiers honed in on soft wool jersey track pants, elastic waist trousers, nubby argyle sweaters and a plethora of buttery leather jackets that were cut fitted at the waist with wide ribbed waistbands or drawstring details.
But it’s proof of the designer’s tailoring talents that the collection never reclined into something that felt housebound. Every look had just the right amount of structure to make it a new take on modern urban streetwear.
The creativity of the knitwear alone would have made this collection a winner. The way Maier dip dyed the shoulders of his wide neck sweaters, crafted collars that curved down a shoulder and under an arm, or created hand knotted argyles woven to slide at an angle down the body, showed a designer at the top of his game. But then there were the beautifully tailored muted toned suits that had just a hint of color at the jacket hem, artistically dipped in shades of blue or loden green. And let’s not forget all the checked reversible coats in wool; the nylon, wool and jersey jackets and the “water stained” shearling overcoats. All of these pieces would be a welcomed addition to any man’s wardrobe.
This was a collection that blurred the lines between comfort and construction. The versatility of its knit sweater and suit combos or tailored jogging pants paired with fitted jackets in suede or calf skin proved Maier to be a designer who is in synch with the wants and desires of sophisticated men who can appreciate the finer things in life.