Sometimes you can just tell how a designer is feeling through his collection. That was the case at the Bottega Veneta show this morning which had a relaxed and graceful energy about it unlike anything Tomas Maier has created in the past. The collection had a slightly south-of-the-boarder slant. Easy pullover tops reminiscent of Baja hoodies, sailors' uniforms, and tunics looked both casual and elegant when paired with cropped slim pants. The décontracté designs continued through to the accessories of fringed moccasin shoes and large “strap across the body” leather bags.
But the loosened up silhouette didn’t mean that Maier let his focus go. For example there was some beautiful and intricate tailoring that saw rivulets of stitching down the shoulders of light weight jackets which helped hug the fabric to the body.
The designer's exploration in using fabrics typically reserved for womenswear (silk chiffon, crepe de shine) produced some powerful pieces. In particular the series of flower print outfits that came covered in a soothing layer of white organza. Also the addition of a shadowy print of cherry tree branches on the jacket of a classic gabardine suit had a subtle sweetness to it that was something quite unexpected from the designer. It was a fine show that proved that Maier is just as at ease within the world of casual dress as he is with structured tailoring.