After a number of seasons pushing fashion forward with innovative ideas and intuitive textile experimentation, designer Tomas Maier took a step back.
For next summer, he turned his attention to the romantic and retro style of the 1940s and more specifically the flower print house-dresses which pretty much defined the sartorial style of the era. The task for Maier was how to update such an iconic look while still holding onto the heritage of its ultra feminine soul.
Maier’s response to this challenge was to give a feeling of strength and structure to the soft fabrics though embellishments. Sometimes it was as subtle as inserting lace panels into the dusty floral patterned ensembles, but often the ornamentation was of a more forceful nature.
As the show progressed the decoration became richer and more complex. Creating a sort of architectural framework that had been superimposed onto the fluid silk designs. Ribbons of snakeskin, shimmering sequins, strips of lace, bubble-like beading, and a bit of macramé were all used to give the clothing a multifaceted depth that spoke volumes about Maier perfectionism and dedication to detail.
A few of the dresses, in particular the fringe numbers crafted out of strips of leather and the short sleeved wrap skirt options that had beading inserted into the tops to make them appear is if their graphic pattern had grown out of the fabric, had a more contemporary point of few.
However, what this Bottega Veneta collection succeeded in proving most of all is that you don’t have to forgo feeling powerful to look feminine.
- Jessica Michault