Fit for a Harvard grad who never really grew out of his pullovers, cardigans and glee club blazers, Brioni's fall winter collection was geared toward the American golden boy, whose closest interaction with bespoke is Italian ready-to-wear.
Many of the near 50 looks featured layered garments: collared shirts, with a tie, topped off with a pullover and a blazer. Cashmere sweaters, some with 24 karat gold dustings, were neatly tucked into the belted, pleated pants — in strict boarding school fashion. Mink and silk scarves, tartan blankets and a crocodile belted trench coat provided an unexpected flair for this Ivy League prince with pedigree and finesse. Wingtips and pony leather saddle-like bags brought the ensembles full circle.
Brioni said Designer Brendan Mullane was in pursuit of Spanish equestrian culture and the Art Deco and Bauhaus movements. But it was clear the house was in pursuit of customers — with the US as one of its top single markets in terms of sales. Not surprisingly, the top American buyers in the front row were snapping shots with their iPhones the whole show through.
Kering's Francois-Henri Pinault was flanked by American actor James Marsden and British hearthrob Max Irons, in celebration of the Roman house's 70th anniversary and its return to the catwalk.
In the dimly lit, carpeted courtyard of Milan's Castello Sforzesco, the low hum of classical music was heard. In the ominous medieval setting it almost felt like a duel would soon ensue.
And then we woke up from our sartorial slumber and remembered that this is how Kering rolls.