The SS12 menswear collection by Burberry Prorsum caused fierce debate amongst fashion lovers. The raffia, the pom-pom hats, the beaded collars, in short, the inspirational muse of African craftsmanship was disorientating for many. Hurrah then for Christopher Bailey and his team who took the criticism on the chin and nevertheless continued this creative, eye-catching theme for the SS12 womenswear collection, arguably fine-tuned and kinks ironed out. Burberry is an heritage brand but must that mean that beige raincoats is all that it can ever offer?
There's a lot to covet in this new collection, the opening look alone, a trench in a luxurious shade of bruised plum with pleated skirts, a multi-coloured beaded belt and oh, the deep bag that felt like an instant classic, started everything on a strong footing. The waterproof sowester turned into a bolero shape with collars folding around Arizona Muse's face gave food for thought, many more similar jackets came down the runway. The gaze of a gifted designer on outdoor wear has been long overdue, it's one of those moments where you think, that's nifty, how has that never been thought of before?
Skirts were all highwaisted, ruched and fell to below the knee. The same waistline continued on the dresses which played, to differing degrees, with the African theme. The platformed sandals with ankle beads and the constant stream of bags, the majority deep and fortified with brown leather, stirrup straps everywhere, complimented the silhouette which called for that platform to lengthen the calf for those pretty skirts. The striped, woven cotton trench with wide buckle belt worked, some of the dresses perhaps less but the final jacket with maxi leather weave on the arms looked like a collectors item. Glastonbury, the out-door, three-day music festival that's famuous for rain each June and arguably the one summer event where so many of the Burberry muses are gathered in one place, will never look better. However, that said, much that went down the catwalk yesterday is already available for order on the Burberry site. Ready, steady, go!
www.burberry.com (words: Sarah Hay)
巴寶莉(Burberry Prorsum)早先的春夏2012男裝秀讓時裝愛好者中引起了激烈的辯論。拉菲草,拉拉隊帽子,串珠狀的領,許多對這非洲工藝的靈感有一點迷失也不明白。克里斯托弗.貝利(Christopher Bailey) 和他的設計團隊儘管批評如此繼續同樣的理念和搶眼的主題作春夏2012女裝設計,不過有重新做概念微調。巴寶莉是一個傳統品牌,這是否意味著它只能提供米色風衣嗎？