Designer Christopher Bailey has a well-rounded and coherent vision for Burberry laid out for next year.
His spring/summer 2013 menswear collection, which showed in June, foreshadowed the sartorial look of the womenswear show he debuted in London on Tuesday. There were the "Splash" reflective sunglasses, the use of metallic fabrics to create tops, dresses and two-toned trench coats, and the rounded shape of the bomber jacket (a key item on the menswear catwalk) was the clear starting point to some of the show’s voluminous silhouettes.
It was that curved “Cristobal Balenciaga” shape that really stood out in this collection. Starting with the first exit of a cocooning cloak that almost completely hid a micro pleated metallic swimsuit to the plastic orange mini rain slicker cape and a number of cropped bomber-esque jackets; the style gave the show a structural freedom. It was a silhouette that worked particularly well on the belted ombre coats that wrapped the models up in sleek glamour.
While the metallic tones and the micro pleated ensembles looked familiar, what was truly refreshing in this collection was the way the designer used rich duchess satins or dense guipure lace to craft his trench coats. It gave the brand’s iconic outerwear just enough of a push to thrust the design past its military heritage into one of sophistication and elegance.
And if that wasn’t an opulent enough option, then surely the trench Bailey crafted out of iridescent feathers that had been meticulously arranged in a flower patter will quench any luxe desires not already sated by this lush collection.
- Jessica Michault