For his Spring/Summer 2016 Calvin Klein menswear collection, designer Italo Zucchelli stuck to the sharp and strong minimalistic aesthetic that has served him, and the brand, so well for more than a decade.
But this time he wove into the rigor of his urban offerings a suggestion of movement and a sensation of a sartorial expedition. He did this both in shimmering laminated waves of color that rolled across sleeveless t-shirts and in the undulating addition of a ribbon of fabric affixed to slim pants. Often, the glassy sheen of those breaker tops would be damped down with a semi-sheer lightweight sweater, as if they were just a mirage in the desert.
This arid sensation was also subtly reinforced by the addition of a palm tree motif into the collection. While a series of faux light blue denim pieces, cut from stiff jacquard, surfaced like an oasis of cool in the middle of the searingly precise show. Even the bracing hardcore metal music from the band Ministry playing on the show's soundtrack has a way of isolating the audience from its surroundings.
Zucchelli squeezed every last ounce of minimalistic possibility out of his designs this season. No pocket, accessory, or garment felt auxiliary in any way.
When the Calvin Klein man goes exploring next spring, he will have everything he needs and not one thing more.