Calvin Klein Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Milan
Perhaps it's the fact that it is currently sweltering in Milan, but today's Calvin Klein show, filled with sporty pieces cut from - or featuring- PVC, felt more cruel then cool on the catwalk.
Designer Italo Zucchelli has long been an advocate of using the latest high tech fabrics in his menswear. And more often then not, he wrestles those textiles to his will. Even in this spring/summer 2015 show his "performance" jersey tank tops and stretch tech cotton slim pant proved he still is a leader in this new fashion frontier.
Unfortunately, all of that interesting exploration was over shadowed by his decision to craft a series of bomber jackets, pullovers, and blouson tops in PVC. All of them in high octane hues of hazard orange, lemon yellow or fire engine red. It was impossible not to imagine the ripped "chocolate bar" torsos of the models melting away under all that plastic.
The concept worked significantly better as a contemporary take on embellishments. Such as when the bright material was used as a trim on a top, zipped down in strips on pant legs or peeked up from under layered razor back tanks.
The other key take away from this collection was how Zucchelli layered his hot weather looks. So that easy cut poplin boxer shorts were stacked on top of skin hugging mesh boxer briefs. Or a wife beater tank was added to an oversized t-shirt to dampen down the volume. And all the stackable style finished with some covetable high-top sneaker/hiking boot hybrid footwear.
This nouveau sport collection might not have won the day. But it should still score a few points with buyers.