On the last day of New York Fashion Week, designer Francisco Costa visited that much-loved fashion era of the late '60s and early '70s with his fall/winter 2015 collection. A space in time where sleek Mod minidresses slowly grew into long and lean handicraft creations.
Costa is a self-confessed frustrated architect. He clearly channeled that unsated desire into this collection, and in doing so was able to boost the familiar retro concept and give it a rather original perspective.
He constructed wide-cuffed coats and short dresses out of horizontal strips of leather, suede or haircalf with distinctive seaming. The overall effect being that the garments echoed the look of luxe tile work. Or he outfitted short and sweet raw-hemmed cashmere t-shirt dresses with a single strip of leather, embellished with metal dots, slicing down the center. Instantly cutting into the softness at the heart of the garment and giving the ensembles a graphic vigor.
The leitmotif of the show was the circle. Costa used it to counterbalance all of the linear ideas being pored into the construction of his garments. It appeared as big bold buttons on outerwear, was inserted as imposing grommets on the hem of flared pants. Silver spheres dotted the front of dresses or a circle was simply cut into the neckline of a tunic. The designer went as far, in his final three looks, to combine small silver stud ornamentation with circular perforations for an artisanal result.
The collection ended up being neither overly nostalgic nor excessively experimental. It lingered somewhere in middle.