Carolina Herrera Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 New York

In the pursuit of luxurious femininity and elegance in all circumstances, there is one designer who seems to have cornered the market, and that’s Carolina Herrera. She’s a fixture on a calendar going supernova and considering hot ticket designers like Prabal Gurung attended her Summer 14 show; she’s something of a reference.

The kinetic art of Venezuelan artists Carlos Cruz-Diez and Jesus Rafael Soto served as a visual for the season’s prints but there was nothing androgynous about Herrera’s optical explorations. And the loveliness of it is all her. On the far wall, large slivers of screens displayed only close-up videos of the prints and embellishments, creating an ever moving kaleidoscope.

Even the straightest lines bend to the designer’s will and curves to her desires to highlight the ultimate elegant feminine form, as evident the second that Karlie Kloss stepped on the runway, a vision of sophisticated loveliness in a crisp white shirt and flowing long op-print skirt.

Together with her feminine, flowing cuts, the verticalities of the patterns created a hazy feeling. Graphic striping conferred a certain sporting element to it, if your sport of choice is lying supine by the pool in a ruffled bikini with a wide brimmed sunhat and sunglasses, sipping cocktails.

A few missteps occurred, but they didn’t jar overmuch in her lineup of sophisticated dresses – one standout was the white dress with wide black straps and a white-on-white embroidered organza overlay. A Peter Pan collar that flowed into a floor-grazing mullet tunic worn over trousers had a distinct contemporary appeal, but it is in her eveningwear that her full power came through. Floaty layers of translucence played with the light and lines.

Overall, it was a moveable fashion feast and the quintessence of kinetic art: with every step, the lines shimmied and created a vision of grace.

- Lily Templeton