Carolina Herrera Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 New York
Carolina Herrera has used her fair share of flowers in her runways shows over the years. So to see her produce a collection that once again revisits one of her favorite starting points, but come at it in a wholly original and modern way, was quite a treat for those who attended her show on Monday.
Flowers affected every aspect of the collection. Their hues dictated the color palette of the garments. Their oversized blooms boldly expanded out onto the architecturally crafted ensembles. And even the shimmering effect of dew on petals was abstractly referenced in a smattering of beadwork.
But where the modernity came into play was in the designer's choice to use photographic images of flowers and manipulate them on the high tech clothing. Petals would blossom brightly on tencho jersey pieces, go "grayscale" on viscose crepe gowns, or become a pixilated version of themselves thanks to some beautiful foam embroidery on jackets and skirts.
Modern too was the way the designer constructed her (often padded) fabrics. Riffing on an oriental approach to her silhouettes, she folded, layered and even stacked her textiles. The result was ensembles that had a sense of volume without ever feeling weighted down.
Herrera's show proved that flower motifs can be much more than a girly artifice. In the right hands they can be a beautiful fashion force worth reckoning with.