Casely-Hayford Menswear Spring Summer 2016 London
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The title of father-and-son team Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford was nicely apposite for London menswear's themes as a whole: OF INDETERMINATE ORIGIN. That's not to say you couldn't have picked apart all the disparate threads of this, or any other of this week's shows: Nineties hip-hop, Sixties Mod discipline, rave-era Ibiza, Northern Soul, and all the other reference points that have clung round every collection. It's that all those things have become so melded together, so fused into something familiar yet strange, that the points of origin matter less and less. Instead, they're elements garbled in translation, warped and stretched into hybrids so far evolved that they've become almost entirely separate things. 

And the Casely-Hayford show may not be where you come to see the radical and the new – but it's where, inevitably, you see all those elements refracted and evolved into a cohesive narrative. Today, there were old-school Crombies that seemed almost sheer under the harsh runway lights; sliced and layered biker jackets in drab schoolyard crimsons and blues; intricate monochrome patterned trousers, doubled-up drawstring hem shirts, and overcoats fused with padded biker details. Everything was familiar enough to feel some sense of continuity, and yet strange enough to maintain interest in a brand which continues – against the odds – to evolve in sync with London's ever changing flux.

 

(Re)discover the Fall/Winter 2015 menswear collection right here.

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