At Lanvin Corto Maltese Got the Look
By Gianluca Cantaro
Bruno Sialelli, Creative Director at Lanvin, finally shook off the Loewe imprinting that was...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Bruno Sialelli, Creative Director at Lanvin, finally shook off the Loewe imprinting that was blurring his vision and delivered a Hugo Pratt's Corto Maltese inspired collection marking a substantial design switch from the previous ones, that somewhat resembled his past job at the Spanish brand....
Bruno Sialelli, Creative Director at Lanvin, finally shook off the Loewe imprinting that was blurring his vision and delivered a Hugo Pratt's Corto Maltese inspired collection marking a substantial design switch from the previous ones, that somewhat resembled his past job at the Spanish brand. Sialelli continued the collaboration with cartoonists, started when he first took the helm of the...
Paris Unveils a Man in All His Greatness
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
At the beginning of the menswear season in Paris,...
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
At the beginning of the menswear season in Paris, Alexandre Mattiussi made a statement by celebrating the 9th anniversary of his label Ami with a birthday party that notably featured accordion music, red velvet curtains, and movie sets. The following day,...
At the beginning of the menswear season in Paris, Alexandre Mattiussi made a statement by celebrating the 9th anniversary of his label Ami with a birthday party that notably featured accordion music, red velvet curtains, and movie sets. The following day, Tahliah Debrett Barnett, aka FKA Twigs, performed live during Valentino's latest menswear show....
Paris Menswear’s Final Bow
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
It might be a Fashion Week Sunday, but for Alejandro Gómez...
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
It might be a Fashion Week Sunday, but for Alejandro Gómez Palomo, that’s no excuse to forego church. The Andalusian designer reconnected with the Catholic heritage of his native Spain and turned a minimal concrete space in the 19ème arrondissement into...
It might be a Fashion Week Sunday, but for Alejandro Gómez Palomo, that’s no excuse to forego church. The Andalusian designer reconnected with the Catholic heritage of his native Spain and turned a minimal concrete space in the 19ème arrondissement into his own temple by having his models walk while carrying thuribles loaded with incense and Paschal...
Loewe's Playful Wardrobe
By Gianluca Cantaro
"I wanted to be optimistic and joyful,” explained Creative...
By Gianluca Cantaro
By Gianluca Cantaro
"I wanted to be optimistic and joyful,” explained Creative Director Jonathan Anderson after the Loewe show. "I imagined a child that plays with mom's ball gown in front of the mirror, giving a 2D effect to the 3D object.” Being positive is often...
"I wanted to be optimistic and joyful,” explained Creative Director Jonathan Anderson after the Loewe show. "I imagined a child that plays with mom's ball gown in front of the mirror, giving a 2D effect to the 3D object.” Being positive is often synonymous with being light-hearted, something that lets you enjoy life (and clothes) as it is without any...
Personal Narratives and Powerful Duos
By Elisabeta Tudor & Marta Represa
For her second foray into Paris Fashion Week, Emily Bode chose a venue in the 16ème...
By Elisabeta Tudor & Marta Represa
By Elisabeta Tudor & Marta Represa
For her second foray into Paris Fashion Week, Emily Bode chose a venue in the 16ème arrondissement, turning it into a minimal garden as a backdrop for her characteristic brand of Americana. Although the Atlanta-born designer debuted her business less than three years ago, she has already made a...
For her second foray into Paris Fashion Week, Emily Bode chose a venue in the 16ème arrondissement, turning it into a minimal garden as a backdrop for her characteristic brand of Americana. Although the Atlanta-born designer debuted her business less than three years ago, she has already made a name for herself by repurposing antique household fabrics — sourced at flea markets from New England...
Dior's Kim Jones Pays Homage to Judy Blame
By Gianluca Cantaro
Kim Jones for Dior Homme paid homage to friend and fashion icon Judy Blame, the forward-thinking...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Kim Jones for Dior Homme paid homage to friend and fashion icon Judy Blame, the forward-thinking British designer. He was an iconoclast and Jones drew copiously from this heritage. Due to the designer's passion for couture, the show was a parade of dandies wearing tailored moire silks with big...
Kim Jones for Dior Homme paid homage to friend and fashion icon Judy Blame, the forward-thinking British designer. He was an iconoclast and Jones drew copiously from this heritage. Due to the designer's passion for couture, the show was a parade of dandies wearing tailored moire silks with big cockades, precious wools both knitted and used for voluminous coats and dramatic opera gloves that...
The Art of Craftsmanship and Contemplation
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
If there is one indisputable trend this season, it's the...
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
If there is one indisputable trend this season, it's the tailoring reboot. And that means one thing: it's Pierre Mahéo's moment. With his brand Officine Générale, the Parisian designer has always had a clear agenda: to make timeless casual chic...
If there is one indisputable trend this season, it's the tailoring reboot. And that means one thing: it's Pierre Mahéo's moment. With his brand Officine Générale, the Parisian designer has always had a clear agenda: to make timeless casual chic clothes meant to really be worn.    His suits are immediately recognizable and include tapered...
Vulnerable Masculinity and Versatile Workwear
By Elisabeta Tudor
While the first two days of the Paris' Fall/Winter 2020 menswear shows showed that several brands...
By Elisabeta Tudor
While the first two days of the Paris' Fall/Winter 2020 menswear shows showed that several brands were turning to more formal styling, this third day was marked by a less assertive, more fluid take on masculinity.  Chinese designer Sean Suen explored fluid tailoring infused with dark romance. His...
While the first two days of the Paris' Fall/Winter 2020 menswear shows showed that several brands were turning to more formal styling, this third day was marked by a less assertive, more fluid take on masculinity.  Chinese designer Sean Suen explored fluid tailoring infused with dark romance. His light workwear pieces came with a hint of sophisticated tailoring. They were characterized by a...
Virgil Abloh’s Tailored Louis Vuitton
By Gianluca Cantaro
The power of today's communication and branding are tools...
By Gianluca Cantaro
The power of today's communication and branding are tools that big Maisons like Louis Vuitton have mastered and the hype around the acclaimed monogram boosted by name of the designer, Virgil Abloh from Off-White, affected their men's line. Since Abloh...
The power of today's communication and branding are tools that big Maisons like Louis Vuitton have mastered and the hype around the acclaimed monogram boosted by name of the designer, Virgil Abloh from Off-White, affected their men's line. Since Abloh started his master plan and developed the company’s sampling, he has turned the brand into a...
Romanticism in Tailoring by Valentino
By Gianluca Cantaro
The delicate music and voice of Fka Twigs's live performance gave the Valentino show a peculiar...
By Gianluca Cantaro
The delicate music and voice of Fka Twigs's live performance gave the Valentino show a peculiar atmosphere, emphasising romanticism – the main theme of the collection. The tailoring approach that Pierpaolo Piccioli used for jackets, coats, suits and sportswear was stiff and structured. The...
The delicate music and voice of Fka Twigs's live performance gave the Valentino show a peculiar atmosphere, emphasising romanticism – the main theme of the collection. The tailoring approach that Pierpaolo Piccioli used for jackets, coats, suits and sportswear was stiff and structured. The romanticism aspect was expressed by fluid lines mixed with a distinct design: the jackets were opened on...
Formalwear and Future Nostalgia
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kicked off at a derelict building on the 15eme arrondissement with...
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kicked off at a derelict building on the 15eme arrondissement with the Études show. The Parisian collective has made a name for itself by cleverly anticipating trends ad infusing them with their own identity, creating unpretentious, super covetable collections. If this...
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kicked off at a derelict building on the 15eme arrondissement with the Études show. The Parisian collective has made a name for itself by cleverly anticipating trends ad infusing them with their own identity, creating unpretentious, super covetable collections. If this season was no exception, that means we’re in for a tailoring comeback: pleated and tapered trousers...
In Milan Ideas Are Recycled
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
The fashion industry is forever filled with good intentions. It embraces one cause after another....
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
The fashion industry is forever filled with good intentions. It embraces one cause after another. Yesterday, it was defending minorities. Today, it fights for the environment. At last week's Pitti Uomo in Florence, you could not even find one single exhibitor who didn't feature a garment crafted...
The fashion industry is forever filled with good intentions. It embraces one cause after another. Yesterday, it was defending minorities. Today, it fights for the environment. At last week's Pitti Uomo in Florence, you could not even find one single exhibitor who didn't feature a garment crafted from eco-friendly or recycled fabrics — a garment that was produced in conditions respectful of...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Gucci abandoned the co-ed formula to go back to fashion week with a proper mens show (58 looks and only 10 were womenswear). "It's my fifth anniversary at the helm of Gucci and I wanted to go back and rediscover all my...
Gucci abandoned the co-ed formula to go back to fashion week with a proper mens show (58 looks and only 10 were womenswear). "It's my fifth anniversary at the helm of Gucci and I wanted to go back and rediscover all my collections," explained Alessandro Michele after the show. "My first collection also happened to...
In Paris '70s Revival and Back-to-Nature Movement
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
Sankuanz, Paris Fashion Week’s official opening act this season, moved away from his streetwear...
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
Sankuanz, Paris Fashion Week’s official opening act this season, moved away from his streetwear bread-and-butter without completely abandoning it — after all, the brand is among Hypebeast’s and Ssense’s darlings. Chinese-born designer Shangguan Zhe chose to start his show with a series of sharp...
Sankuanz, Paris Fashion Week’s official opening act this season, moved away from his streetwear bread-and-butter without completely abandoning it — after all, the brand is among Hypebeast’s and Ssense’s darlings. Chinese-born designer Shangguan Zhe chose to start his show with a series of sharp moiré suits for men and women. They were part of an eclectic collection with punk, cyberpunk,...
Menswear on The Rise as Gucci and Ferragamo Return
By Sofia Celeste
Amid a relaxed fashion week that opened with the 25th...
By Sofia Celeste
Amid a relaxed fashion week that opened with the 25th anniversary of Dsquared2 and closed with the return of Gucci to the Milan menswear calendar, designers were upbeat about the future of menswear.   According to a report released by market...
Amid a relaxed fashion week that opened with the 25th anniversary of Dsquared2 and closed with the return of Gucci to the Milan menswear calendar, designers were upbeat about the future of menswear.   According to a report released by market research group Euromonitor International, the menswear sector is forecast to grow 22 percent by 2024 and...