Celine Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris
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Designer Phoebe Philo returned to the catwalk this season, after the birth of her third child, with a Celine collection which proved that - while everyone has now joined the minimalist bandwagon Philo helped revive- she has already moved on.
 
But she hasn’t gone too far outside her wheelhouse, just enough to push her unassuming style in a slightly different direction. That is to say she has loosened up a bit. Where once clothing was stiff it is now cut in liquid silks that caress the body. The precision of Philo’s finishing has melted into frayed knitwear and raw hemlines, while her structured outerwear has dissolved into amorphous oversized coats or shrugs crafted out of twisted fabric and stitched up in the back.
 
In her preferred neutral palette of black, navy, and white – with just a touch of blush pink or sandy gold- Philo created a contemporary collection of relaxed urban pieces designed to move comfortably on the city streets. This included slouchy pants, slim A-line dresses with sporty V-shaped mesh inserts down the front, and outsized jackets crafted sans sleeves that finished well below the hips.
 
And what about those all-important Celine accessories? This is where the designer moved into the territory of another minimalist master- Martin Margiela. The flat sandals lined in colorful fur or the nude high-heeled pumps with the trompe l'oiel outline of red painted toenails, were right out of the Margiela handbook. It was just the right touch of idiosyncratic fashion that gave this stress-free show a punchy finish.

- Jessica Michault

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