Cerruti Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris
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The “quest of softness” was Aldo Maria Camillo's main theme for his menswear debut at Cerruti last season and the former Valentino men's designer decided to pursue this path by staying faithful to Nino Cerruti's refined gentlemen looks and adding a sportswear feeling to it.


“My idea in general is to build a continuous story based on my first collection. It is about redefining basic tailoring in a more dynamic and modernist way. For instance, I focused on technical research in order to explore new fabric and shapes. It's about answering the needs of our clients, mixing a more casual feeling with Cerutti's heritage”, explained the designer shortly before his show.


Iridescent garments crafted from the finest wool lamé were already a striking element representing the designer's quest for a new take on basics in his latest autumn-winter 2013/14 collection and Camillo went on with the mentioned innovative fabric research and softened his wools and cottons with nylon and voile and added further precious materials, such as washed silk, silk mikado and noble ramie fabric to his inventory.


The designer also played a lot with trompe-l'oeil effects: paisley-resembling patterns and embroideries on overcoats, bomber jackets, shirts and pants that actually turned out to be naval prints in bandana-optic, while shirts were crafted in superposed, band structured cotton voile, in order to make a nod to the classic Breton-stripes.


Particularly worth seeing were a row of sleek parkas and jackets that were belted at the chest. They thereby created a high waistline that brought a refreshingly sporty fit to classic tailoring. The color palette was rather tame this season: mainly black and white contrasts, but also charcoal, chocolate brown and off-white were balanced with a few hints of ruby red and sage green. A timeless style that will certainly last longer than just one summer season. 



- Elisabeta Tudor
 

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