CG by Chris Gelinas Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 New York

Starting off day 2 of fashion week with the CG by Chris Gelinas presentation means starting off with one of the buzziest of young, contemporary New York-based brands. His first presentation alone won him the Peroni Emerging Designer award which awarded him with cash and a venue for his second presentation, again at Milk. That collection landed him a finalist spot in the inaugural iteration of the LVMH Prize and now, having been accepted into the MADE Milk program, the former Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler and Balenciaga employee is back with his third collection. "It really just pushed me even further," Gelinas said of the experiences. "Being involved with it so early on and meeting all the designers so early made me feel like I had to keep pushing the bar."

For Gelinas, pushing the bar meant staying with some silhouettes that were familiar to his customer (flounce skirts also familiar to the customer of former employer Balenciaga) while exploring some new print offerings ("it actually came from a roofing material," he laughed when I pointed to a couple of looks with a blue grid style). As a result of a sort of homogenization of fashion, represented in the first trio of uniform-like beige looks, the designer started to play with silks and technical luxe fabrics as well as textures. A plisse pleated skirt served as a layering piece while silks came draped across the body. It indeed was a unique look, yoke tops made to settle on to the wearer's shoulders wherever that might fall, only one attribute of the customization, switching from oversized to delicate on the right frame.

It was an intellectual's answer to homogenization and will garner only a niche market of fans no doubt, but for that niche the collection is a befitting and covetable, dare we say, must-have take.