At the start of the Chloé show the soundtrack asked, "Just what is it that you want to do?" And the answer came fast and strong: "We want to be free!" Clare Waight Keller unquestionably is feeling the same way and is loosening up her sartorial perspective. It suits her, and her collection, to a T.
Speaking of suits, it was the designer's astute mix of retro (think Run DMC) tracksuits with ultra-feminine lace tops that gave the lineup a sporty fresh kick. It also brought to mind the brand's salad days in the ‘90s when everyone who was anyone was wearing a Chloe silk and lace top with their high-waisted Chloe jeans. A connection that looked intentional as Waight Keller name-checked the ‘90s as the era she used as a reference point. Although she proffered up the period’s grunge fashion movement and the natural style of photographer Connie Day as the show inspirations.
Well, there was nothing grungy about today's offering unless some of the models “can’t be bothered” manner counts. What read more clearly was the designer’s Rainbow Dash My Little Pony push toy starting points. The shades of its multihued mane were telegraphed into colorful fluid chiffon gowns and full pants, were used as piping on the edges of ruffled white dresses or the laces of sandals and were most closely mimicked in the assortment of tassels that finished off the final few looks.
These girly designs were highly appealing. But they weren’t alone. Waight Keller’s dark, raw-edged denim designs had a chic boho beauty to them, and easy overalls made a nice change of pace from all the jumpsuits and rompers that have been popping up on other catwalks this season.
This Chloe collection expertly captured the romantic feminine essences of the house but gave it a new urban strength that it can confidently lean on to take it into the future.